I recently read that many Parisians were emigrating out of town, due to the harshness of modern city life… and the rising real estate prices too! Although I can understand their motivations, I still think nothing can replace the Moveable Feast Paris is and has been, and hopefully will continue to be, even under the constraints of modern life, incivilities, Saturdays’ ransacking, electric “trottinettes” left on the sidewalks…
Last week, I discovered a highly effective way of escaping the city’s lights for a few moments : just drive North! until you reach the sea… Full of delicious elements, which sometimes end up in restaurant kitchens… So here are two addresses I found were worthwhile visiting if you ever plan a Normandy’s epicurean tour :
Le Turbot in Dieppe, Le Bistro Fleuri in Villerville
Although Dieppe isn’t that busy in winter, it is best to reserve your table at Le Turbot, as the restaurant quickly fills up with local repeat guests and tourists.
Service is efficient, warm and friendly : 2 young and talented cooks in the kitchen (which looked very clean and well organized), and presumably the two owners in service.
For fresh seafood lovers such as myself, this is Heaven! Menus and specials of the day are written on boards and there is a very decent selection of wines by the glass, ranging from Loire to Alsace.
Fish is exceptionally fresh, the restaurant is located at the port’s entrance and is purchased on a daily basis, directly from the boats.
Don’t miss the scallops (Dieppe is the main scallop fishing port in the country), and of course turbot and Saint-Pierre (John Dory) roasted with Guérande salt.
Higly recommended desserts are the crème brûlée and raspberry tartlet.
4 Quai de la Cale, 76200 Dieppe
Now let’s drive South West towards Le Havre, cross the Pont de Normandie, and head towards the world famous resorts of Deauville and Trouville. Shorlty after driving through Honfleur, you’ll find Villerville… once you find the Mairie (on the right side of the main road), you will have arrived at Le Bistro Fleuri, on the opposite side of the road.
As we say in French “ça ne paie pas de mine”, meaning the place hardly even looks like a restaurant, and is really tiny, but it is a real gem!
Parking is easy, literally in front of the restaurant.
Ben and his wife Estelle, an English couple living in France for more than 20 years welcome you in such a friendly and warm manner, it just feels as if you were coming for lunch at a friend’s place!
The restaurant full most of the time (my advice it to book ahead too), and everything is made fresh by Ben in the kitchen.
Fish and chips is a must, it’s done the real English way (with the mashed peas!), you won’t find a better one around, unless you cross the Channel perhaps!
For dessert, ask him for his grandmother’s toffee pudding, guaranteed thrills.
Le Bistro Fleuri
61 Rue du General Leclerc, 14113 Villerville, France
Bon appétit!